Category Archives: Featured

The ‘Wynnum’ Staffy

Staffy

Breed: The Staffordshire Bull Terrier

 

History: The Staffordshire Bull Terrier is a cross between a bulldog and terrier and was originally bred as a fighting dog, mostly baiting bulls and bears in the 19th century. When this cruel sport was abolished the dogs were then pitted against each other instead. However, today they are a popular pet and a regular in the show ring, competing at top level in agility and obedience classes in the UK.

Height: 35.5 – 40.5cm (male from the shoulder)

Weight: Dog (Male) 13-17kg; Bitch (female) 11-15kg

Coat & colour: smooth, short coat that comes in red, fawn, black, blue, or any of these colours with white, any shade of brindle with or without white

Character & Temperament

A Staffy does everything at full throttle!

Extremely courageous, obedient and affectionate with a sense of humour.

A real people dog that is normally great with children. While staffy’s are sweet-tempered and affectionate, their strength and determination require an experienced owner who can work with them in a firm, but gentle way. Staffy’s tend to be good with other pets in the household, but without a stern, human pack leader giving corrections when needed, it may be combative with dogs outside the family, therefore it is important to socialise them well from an early age.

Staffy’s are intelligent, persistent and active. As a puppy they love to chew so provide them with lots of chew toys from an early age. They have a very strong jaw so steer clear of the squeaker toys that will be easily destroyed and go for the stronger versions! Also, be aware that staffys are totally fearless and curious and as a result are liable to jump off a deck or walk on broken glass given half the chance!

Information and photo sourced from http://www.dogbreedinfo.com/staffordshirebullterrier.htm &http://www.petpaw.com.au/breeds/staffordshire-bull-terrier/

Preparing you pet for surgery

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No-one likes the thought of their pet undergoing surgery. At Wynnum Bayside Veterinary Surgery we use the anaesthesia, monitoring and surgical techniques most suited to your pet’s operation and recovery, but we also need you to help prepare your pet for surgical procedures.

THE DAY BEFORE…..

FASTING

An empty stomach is critical for safe anaesthesia – one of your most important responsibilities is to make sure that your pet does not have any food after 8pm the night before.

Your pet can have water ONLY overnight, but take it away first thing in the morning when you get up.

Please keep your pet indoors the night before admission. If you have a dog then please do take them out in the morning on a lead so they can have a little exercise and to empty out before admission.

ON THE DAY….

All routine surgery, for example de-sexing is a DAY procedure. Your pet will be admitted first thing in the morning and will normally be discharged from 4.30pm later that day

If the surgery is more complicated then your pet will need to stay in at least overnight to allow them to fully recover. Your vet will confirm whether this is necessary when you book your pet in for their procedure.

ADMISSION

Please bring your fasted pet into WBVS for admission at your pre-booked appointment time. Speak with our staff if you would prefer to have your pet admitted to hospital the night before. Be prepared to spend a few minutes speaking with our veterinarians at admission, it’s important you understand the procedure and we like to have the opportunity to address any concerns or answer any questions. That includes discussing an estimate of expected fees. And, if your pet is staying in hospital longer than one day, remember you can request an update to your account at any time during your pet’s stay.

PAIN MANAGEMENT

Most importantly, we take pain management and the comfort of your pet very seriously. Safe and effective pain relief medication is used for all surgical procedures and during post-operative recovery for all animals.

MEDICATION

If your pet is taking medication, give the normal dose at the usual time unless otherwise directed (talk to us if you’re concerned). For diabetic patients – always speak with one of our vets regarding a pre-surgery medication program.

ANAESTHETICS

We use many of the same anaesthetic agents used in human surgery, and our vets will determine which is the most suitable and safe anaesthetic for your pet’s surgery, depending on the procedure, its length and complexity.

STANDARDS OF QUALITY

Our operating theatre and preparation area allow us to perform surgery with strict standards of sterility, and your pet’s heart, lungs and other vital functions are closely monitored throughout every procedure, regardless of whether it is routine or an emergency.

We use intravenous catheterisation and fluid therapy during all surgery.  I/V fluid therapy maintains your pet’s blood pressure during anaesthesia, helps protect kidneys, reduces recovery time and provides an immediate way to administer drugs or a blood transfusion in the case of an emergency.

POST SURGERY UPDATE

We will ring you once your pet has woken up after surgery to let you know how they are going and to confirm whether he/she is going to be awake enough to go home at the agreed discharge time. After more complex surgery and occasionally after routine surgery we keep an animal in overnight to make sure that they are fully awake and recovered before they go home.

DISCHARGE

Discharge times are arranged during your admission appointment. Your pet is usually ready to go home after 4pm on the day of the surgery if it is a routine procedure otherwise the vet will discuss with you how long your pet will need to stay if the surgery is more complex.

During discharge a nurse or vet will also explain in detail any home care required. It is also an opportunity for us answer any questions or concerns you might have concerning your pet’s recovery. You can always ring us as well once you get home if you have any further questions or concerns.

 

Making your new kitten or cat feel at home

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With sensitive handling and friendly contact for at least an hour a day, your new kitten should be very comfortable with you and their new home

Be sure, if there are also young children in the home that they are taught that a kitten is not a toy, but a living creature who must be treated with gentleness and respect.

Cats like to have a place to hide in order to feel secure also opportunities to get up high if they are feeling threatened.

Provide your pet with lots of opportunities for interest, challenging play that will satisfy their natural instincts. Toys that they can pretend to ‘hunt’ and capture and special posts that they can scratch (instead of your carpets and furniture)

House Training

Kittens are easy to house train. Have a kitty litter tray ready when the kitten first arrives home and should him/her where it is. After each meal and after waking up from a sleep, place your kitten in the litter tray and scratch their front paws in the litter.

Clues that your kitten may need to go to the toilet include: scratching or squatting, each time you see these behaviours place your kitten in the litter tray.

Have at least 2 litter trays per cat and change them regularly – cats don’t like unflushed toilets any more than you do!

Place litter trays in a private place away from noisy dogs and other disturbances, as well as away from food and water bowls or near where your cats sleep

Travel safety

When travelling with your cat, ensure that you use a good quality cat carrier. It is not safe to carry your cat in your arms as cats can become frightened easily and this can cause accidents to yourself, other and your cat. If you do not have a cage and need to go to the vet, then Wynnum Bayside Veterinary Surgery do offer a cat box rental scheme. Please call or drop in for further information.

Also, other suitable carriers would be a plastic storage box that is suitably sized for your cat to travel in and has a secure lid. Place a favourite bed in the bottom and make sure there are plenty of holes in the sides and lid for ventilation.

 

Recommended Tick prevention in cats

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  1. Avoid the tick habitat during tick season such as bush / scrub, wetland areas (July – Dec in the Brisbane area)
  2. Finger-tip search your pets daily for ticks
    - Ticks have to be attached 36-48hrs to cause problems
    - Feel all over the body using your finger-tips
    - Start at the head and then systematically check your pet all over to the tip of their tail!
    - Don’t forget eyes, inside the mouth, ears, groin, armpits, between the toes, any skin folds,   remove collar and check neck etc.
    - Investigate any small lumps found
  3. Remove Ticks 
    - If you find a tick remove it immediately (Some cats can be infested with many ticks at one time so don’t forget to check for more!)
    - This is done by grasping the tick with fingernails, a pair of tweezers or a tick-removing device as close to the cat’s body as possible. A short, sharp tug  will dislodge the tick which can then be killed
    - Then keep your pet quiet and observe for the next 48hrs as signs of toxicity may occur after the tick has been removed
                     Remember if you are worried then contact us immediately as the sooner we treat the better!
  4. Use a tick prevention product:
    - Frontline Spray is the only registered product safe to use in cats. Other tick products for dogs etc. are often TOXIC to cats

Why it is important to protect against intestinal worms in kittens / cats

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Intestinal worms are parasites that live in a cat’s intestines. All cats can get worms, but kittens are most at risk! Worms can make your kitten very sick causing weight-loss, diarrhoea and even death.

Cats are infested with worms by everyday contact with eggs in soil that has been contaminated by poo, from eating fleas whilst grooming, or through close contact with other animals.

Whilst uncommon, you and your family can catch worms from your kitten or cat. Babies and small children are most at risk as their immune systems are not fully developed and they often forget to wash their hands after playing with their kitten. Therefore, it is important to teach children to wash their hands.

The common intestinal worms that we medicate against are Roundworm, Hookworm and tapeworm. Worming should be done regardless of whether worms are seen in poo or not, as many are too small to be seen with the naked eye.

Symptoms of a worm infestation can be varied. Signs to look out for are:

  • Poor growth
  • Poor coat, loss of vitality and lethargy
  • Pot-bellied appearance
  • Abdominal pain as a result of inflammation of the intestinal wall
  • Diarrhoea and vomiting
  • Blood in poo as a result of intestinal bleeding
  • Itchy sores (often on paws)

Recommended worming prevention program:

  • 6-12wks old: Fortnightly tablet
  • 3-6mths olds: Monthly tablet
  • 6mths onwards: Tablet every three months

Alternatively, there are products available that incorporate intestinal worming with fleas and heart worm prevention

Regular poo picking in your garden is also extremely important!

What does the F3 & FIV vaccination protect my cat against?

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Cat Flu

Just as we get flu, so can cats and just as easily! Cat flu is a highly contagious virus that can be contracted by cats of all ages.

Symptoms of Cat flu include:

  • Moderate fever
  • Loss of appetite, sneezing, eye and nasal discharges
  • coughing
  • Ulcers and blisters on the tongue
  • Mild to severe pneumonia

Kittens are particularly affected, but the disease can be dangerous in any unprotected cat, as effective treatment is limited. Even if a cat recovers, it can remain a carrier for life and continue too infect other cats as well as suffer from chronic sneezing and runny eyes. Vaccination is therefore tremendously important.

Feline Infectious Enteritis

This highly contagious virus is so resistant that it can survive outside up to a year outside a cat’s body! Therefore, as most cats will be exposed to it during their lifetime vaccination against this potentially fatal disease is absolutely essential.

Symptoms of Enteritis

  • Listlessness
  • Diarrohea
  • Vomiting
  • Severe dehydration
  • Fever

Happily, the vaccine itself is very effective at preventing the disease.

Feline AIDS (FIV)

Feline AIDS (FIV) is transmitted in cats by deep bite wounds and scratches. Therefore, outdoor cats which fight with other cats are at higher risk of contracting FIV.

Cats infected with FIV may remain healthy for a number of years. While some infected cats show no signs of the disease, others may become unwell and suffer from constant infections among other symptoms. As the disease progresses the immune system becomes too weak to fight off infections. As a result the cat will die of theses infections. However, FIV can easily be prevented through a course of vaccinations